They are not walking cats.
Despite calls in recent years for plus-size inclusion on the runways, a number of recent fashion weeks around the globe have revealed a marked departure from the industry’s recent trend towards body positivity – with insiders condemning the move as ” depressing”.
The change comes as trendy weight-loss drugs like Ozempic are bringing back skinny chic, some say – with designers even controversially referencing the phenomenon in their shows this year.
A new report published by Vogue Business found that less than 1% of the 8,763 looks shown at 208 shows between New York, London, Milan and Paris this season were worn by plus-size models, which is a US size 14 or greater.
Meanwhile, 4.3% were a medium size, a US size 6-12, and nearly 95% were a straight size, a US size 0-4.
The findings mirrored last year’s, according to the report, but insiders like Dazed fashion director Emma Davidson found 2024 to be the “worst season” for representation “in a long time.”
“It’s felt like brands were turning their backs on inclusive casting for a while, but this season, I sat in my seat a few times at shows where bigger models had previously been present, and it was so disheartening to see no representation — this the season feels like the nail in the coffin,” she told the media.
Looks from cult-followed “it” brands like Coperni and Miu Miu landed at 0% for plus-size runway looks, while Ester Manas and Rick Owns landed first and second, respectively, for plus-size runway representation. in Paris. Meanwhile, Milan was the smallest inclusive and London was the largest.
In New York, only four of the top 10 brands included any plus-size models, which Vogue reported was down from last season.
Some fashionistas aren’t even trying to hide their love of the toothpick look – on TikTok, a Balmain model’s footage from this season was titled, “skinniest model ever” and viewers called her look “unreal”. “perfection”. ” and “aspirational,” calling her a “true role model.”
“It feels like we’ve taken 10 steps back,” Anna Shillinglaw, founder of modeling agency Milk Management, told The Guardian.
“Now I think some of the high-end designers looked at curvier women more as a fad than something that is in real life,” she opined.
Casting director Emma Matell also told the media that she has seen “not well” models arriving at shows “exhausted, shivering or their lips are blue”.
Manchester model Emily McGrail, 21, told The Guardian she “felt ‘fat'” compared to other models when she was walking the runway, despite being “considered underweight” for her height and age. The skinny model even admitted she felt “big” standing next to the other girls in the room.
“Models can walk into a room and get rejected 10 to 15 times in a day. If that happens to you, you’ll want to change yourself,” Mattel told The Guardian. “Next season you will want it to go better. And looking at the track now, you might think that means losing weight.”
Off the catwalk, the trend towards thinness grew as celebrities began to slim down – fans speculated that the Kardashians, for example, were downplaying their curves.
And now, plastic surgeons say the “ballet body,” marked by an athletic, slender frame, is the new “trend.”
Not to mention, of course, the weight loss drug boom.
Ozempic’s popularity has fueled shortages, illegal second-hand online sales and a rise in dangerous scams, while the hits have also inspired Halloween costumes.
“We’re back to the way things were 10 years ago,” former casting director James Scully told The Guardian.
“These models serve only one purpose. They are not here to bring any character or joy or to sell anything. They’ve turned into a hanger.”
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Image Source : nypost.com